It’s Sunday and everybody is out in the park! The weather is gorgeous, It rained all last night as we slept and this morning it is fresh and green. This morning Rudy and I went off to a different cafe for a cappuccino and a hot chocolate and a chocolate croissant. The hot chocolate here is bitter and good. Not at all like the insipid sweet stuff at home (which I love as well).
After some painting at home I packed up my sketch pad and pencil and headed off to Parques del Rio. Wow, Sunday is the day to be there. It was hopping! I parked myself at a number of locations to do a bunch of drawing, and did actually get some drawings done, but mostly I people watched. It was delightful. Families were out in full force. Kids on push bikes and pedal bikes, scooters, and roller blades and they rode up and down the walkways. At the “beach and bridge area” kids built sand castles and planted “trees” and climbed on the rope bridge. Vendors with carts of limeade and ice cream offered their wares. People were friendly, greeting each other and stopping to chat. On the grassy areas there were people set up to celebrate occasions. A young man with heart balloons and some sort of present waited in the grass. At another place a momma set out blankets in a circle around a table that had a birthday cake and other items for a kid’s birthday celebration. There were sparkly gold and purple balloons set up for a baby shower. And my favourite experience was coming upon a couple of people dancing. It was a tango type dance and it appeared not to be an event but rather something that they just did in the park on a Sunday afternoon. Once the first couple was done, the man turned to another woman and they took off. She was wearing a crop top and a skirt with a slit for dancing and when I took in the scene further I realized that she was a brand new mom. She still had her post birth momma figure and her friend took care of the fresh baby and the toddler while the momma had a great time dancing. I was so thrilled to see this kind of community activity. It was a perfect way to spend a Sunday afternoon.
Having a coffee
Young man waiting for his date??
Ice cream vendor
The “river and beach” area
Kids
The rope bridge
Baby shower in the park
Natural hanging plant basket
Tango in the park
I arrived home late afternoon and Rudy was hungry. We packed up and headed for some delicious pasta and freshly squeezed lemonada cereza (lime juice with sour cherries). After a lovely relaxing time in the open air we headed home to plan our last week and a half of activities.
This morning Rudy said we had to go to the little cafe that he had been to yesterday to have his cappechino and French toast. So off we went. I can’t say enough how glorious the neighbourhood is that we live in. The trees, shrubs and flowers are so stunning but also so peaceful to walk through. The streets are quiet, when we have to walk on them. but mostly we follow the paths. We arrived as the place was opening and were recognized and ushered in. The people we have met in Medellin are so friendly and welcoming and we communicate in our limited Spanish and hand gestures. The food was fabulous. I really should have taken a picture of it to put in the blog. The French toast slices were thick with cinnamon and cream as well as loaded with fruits (mangos, a type of sour cherries, blueberries, strawberries, and kiwi. We sat in the outdoor area amongst the plants and flowers and felt like royalty.
After this leisurely breakfast we sauntered back to our place, relaxed some more, and then headed out to downtown. The walk is about 30 minutes. We had a couple of things we wanted to see and do. The market streets were hopping. Wow, there are so many stands of knock off shoes, socks, hats, underwear, every different kind of pants, t-shirts, and sweatshirts, not to mention the trinkets and food vendors. We wanted to go back to the Old Palace of Justice mall and wander the top 2 floors. Our guide had mentioned that they were filled with art and I had a hankering to purchase something if there was anything that caught my eye and suited my pocketbook. In short, there wasn’t. It was interesting and some of it appealed to me but most of it was shlocky. Lots of stuff (like horses and fruit) that looked like it should be on a velvet painting. But the building itself is beautiful and it wasn’t a wasted experience.
After that we headed to the Botero Art Museum. It is a massive place that used to be a government building. Most of is Botero’s private collection: his own works and works of prominent artists from mostly Europe and the Americas. Luckily there was lots of English and I was able to read lots about how the political and social settings affected what and how art was made. I was really out of my depth but it was so informative to get a bit of understanding. I learned about Colombia’s reputation in the art world and some of the expositions that are internationally known that are put on here in this country. Rudy was not so much interested in that but totally loves Botero and walked around chuckling much of the time.
The top floor was all works by Botero but we were not allowed to take pictures of any of it. So my photos are of a variety of works from the 1st and 2nd floors.
By the time we were through the gallery we were ready for the long hot walk home. Once home we snacked on guacamole and chips and cold water. I had a nap and Rudy did…. I actually don’t know because I was sleeping. But for supper we headed to our favourite hole in the wall for a hamburguesa and salchi papas.
I woke up this morning to the sounds of the park cleaning people raking leaves outside our window. The trees and bushes grow almost right outside our windows and it feels so lush and fresh all the time. Rudy went out this morning to walk the neighbourhood to look for a cup of coffee. I opted for a cup of tea here and a short video hello with Robin and Miriam. Rudy arrived home wildly enthusiastic. He had found a little coffee and breakfast spot just over a few blocks and enjoyed a delicious french toast and coffee and a visit with the woman who runs the place. I had arranged a video call with my friends, Donna and Leona, at eleven so I stayed in for the morning and had a great chat.
After that Rudy insisted that he take me for a walk and show me the place where he had had breakfast. By this time it was time for almuerza. Most places have a set menu for breakfast and lunch and this place is no different. Lunch was a delicious coleslaw type salad, juice, rice, chicken curry and banana chips. Ooo. It was top notch. After dropping Rudy off at the apartment I went out to the park to sketch. And I also found a whole bunch of new areas in the Parques del Rio.
It was a top notch afternoon. And supper, not so much! The way I might describe it was “educational”. And, by that, I mean terrible. Rudy had researched a fish restaurant near us that had fabulous reviews. And so we took the advice. Ooph. It was not great. It started with a watery soup with an EXTREMELY FISHY taste. I can usually choke things down but I could not take more than a few bites. Rudy did much better than me. Then came the sea bass for me and the tuna for Rudy. He actually didn’t mind his although I was not impressed. My fish had so much salt and was a terrible gelatinous texture that I could hardly bear it. The coleslaw was made a few weeks ago. At least it tasted that way. The patacones were hard and tasteless. The only redeeming thing was the coconut rice. Well sometimes you win and other times…. But, we got home and watched the Jets win 4 to 1 so all was not lost.
Today we went on a walking tour of some of downtown Medellin. Wow! I cannot say enough about how good our tour guide was and how much fun we had. It was so incredibly informative and we learned so much about the people of this area, their history (both traumatic and regenerative) and in the process gained so much appreciation for the country of Colombia. I hardly know where to start.
Our tour guide Juliana was so incredible. She started with an explanation of the people of the area (Medellin and the surrounding state of Antioquia). These people refer to themselves as Paisas. She described them (and herself) as having incredible pride in being from this area (in the Andes) and of the resilience they have shown during the dark times in their history. Initially she did a brief recounting of the years of the drug cartel (although this is only one horrible episode in the history of the country) and after naming Pablo Escobar once she said she would not refer to him by his name again as he did not need to be glorified (as he has been in tv documentaries etc.) She was passionate about her country and especially Medellin and the surrounding area. In the course of the 3 and a half hour tour she spoke of how the people of Medellin clawed back from the terrible 70s, 80s and 90s to build a safe, secure and beautiful city. There were so many stories and I often had tears in my eyes when listening.
Besides all the incredible stories here are some of the places we visited.
The central plaza that housed the government buildings (one for the state of Antioquia and the other for the city of Medellin) as well as the Palace of Justice. There was an incredible statue in the square called the Monumento a la Raza. It is 125 feet high and over 900 metric tons. It is made of concrete and bronze and is a representation of the beginning of time through Colombian history until death. The representation of God actually has the face of the artist. Another monument in the square is dedicated the memory of a former governor and a former peace commissioner of Antioquia who were kidnaped by FARC (a revolutionary armed force of Colombia) during a peace march and murdered. This was during the reign of Pablo Escobar. Also in this square is a massive green wall (300 feet high) against the city government building and is the second biggest one in the world. Medellin is known for the incredible greenery in the city and this is in keeping with that reputation.
Monumento de la Raza
Antioquia Government Building (built in the Brutalist style)
Monument to murdered government officials during a peace march
The green wall on city hall
The Justice and Courts Building
Monumento de las Raza
After this we walked to the Plaza of Botero where there are 23 massive bronze Botero statues. Botero donated them to Medellin (the city where he was born) but said they needed to be displayed in a public place so everyone could have access to the art.
In this plaza there is the Palace of Culture. It is a building that looks like a church at first glance. It is made with black and white stone and is quite striking. Juli, our tour guide said that the architect was Belgian and that there was so much controversy and complaining about the design while it was being built that the architect up and left without finishing it. Unfortunately the Colombians who finished it just didn’t get it right and you can see the very ugly grey wall and boring windows that don’t follow the original design at all. They said that they could just paint the wall black and white to match the rest of the building but never got around to it.
We also toured the incredible former Palace of Justice that is now a mall. It became vacant when all city government buildings were moved to a common location. After standing vacant for 10 years it was slated to be demolished. A foreign investor saw the building, fell in love with it and restored it. The place was magnificent with dozens of massive crystal chandeliers and stain glass windows.
Our last stop was San Antonio square. It had been a bustling and busy place where cultural events (music, theatre, etc.) took place but now it was basically empty and our guide said that this what because of a bombing at a concert there is the 90s. Someone had set a backpack with a bomb under the body of a Botero bird scupture and it exploded killing 30 and injuring over 100 others. The mayor at the time issued some sort of statement that the incident was regrettable and that the statue remains would be cleaned up right away. Within the hour of this announcement the mayor received a call from Botero saying that that should not happen. The people need to remember. He would create another one to sit beside the statue that had been blasted apart and that it would serve as a memory to the people. Our tour guide said that this was so important as many Colombians seek to forget the terrible years and that there is no curriculum in schools about this traumatic time in history. Young people are growing up either indifferent to what has happened or hero worshiping Pablo Escobar and his power.
After the tour we were hot and thirsty so we headed to one of the oldest bars in Medellin and were joined by 5 other people from our tour group. We had some great conversation and then took the long walk back to our place. Today was definitely one of the highlights of our time in Colombia.
Today I chose a wardrobe item that has been in the bottom of my suitcase for a long time: a pair of pants. This morning it was cloudy and misty and after breakfast I went out for a walk. The daily high in Medellin is usually 24 to 26 degrees celsius and it cools down considerably in the evening.
In actual fact, it was not as cool as I imagined and I had to take off my sweatshirt once I got going. I sat for a while on a wet bench and did some sketching. This area of Medellin (called Laureles) is absolutely glorious with walking paths and trees and flowers everywhere. I hadn’t been out long when Rudy texted me that he wanted to go out for a walk. I packed up my stuff and hurried back to pick him up. We headed out to Parques del Rio. It was amazing. It is a long narrow park along both sides of the Medellin River, with bridges crisscrossing the water and plants and trees, many of which are labeled. There are super cool and modern play areas where kids can climb on wooden structures or play on climbing-net. There are lovely walkways and art pieces along the way. I will definitely go there again another day.
Parques del Rios
Parques de Rio
On our walk
Parques del Rios
Kids’ play structure
Ruddy Ground Dove
Climbing structures
Rio Medellin
And more flowers
Flowers
Flowers on the walk
Flowers
I came back to read and also get into more art. I had purchased some new watercolours in Santa Marta because I had run out of yellow. However the set I found was very cheap and turned out to be pretty terrible. But I played around with the paints and figured out some ways to move the paint around and in the end I actually produced something interesting.
After that I went to the store to get some grocery supplies and did some more walking. The fact that we are not sweating to death all the time really makes it easier to enjoy the day. Everyone seems to be out and about on the pathways. Many of them are out walking dogs or just enjoying the shady paths. Because of all the vegetation there are many birds to be seen. I shall have to look them up to identify them.
In the evening Rudy and I walked to a nearby restaurant (really just a hole in the wall vendor) for pizza. It was great. All in all, Medellin is a big hit with us.
Today is a travel day. We are taking a short flight to Medellin. It is inland and at a higher elevation so we are looking forward to some cooler temperatures. Our flight is delayed and Rudy has warned me that it is commonplace with some of these small airlines. We are flying with Jet Smart. Once it is time to board we scan our boarding passes and head out onto the tarmac to our plane. It is a long, long walk to get to our jet and then a long wait in the hot, hot sun. I can’t believe how blistering it is and how long it takes. But finally we are in our plane and we take off.
JetSmart plane on the Cartagena tarmac.
JetSmart passengers waiting to board and baking on the Cartagena tarmac.
When we touch down in Medellin the skies are cloudy, the air full of mist and the temperature deliciously cool. We catch a very comfortable bus into town. The drive is amazing. The mountains are lush and green and the valleys dotted with houses. We travel through a miles long tunnel and get dropped off at a mall close to our accommodations. We take a short taxi drive through an area of the city filled with loads of parks and green spaces. David, our Airbnb host greets us and shows us around the apartment. It is great. So spacious and comfy. It is on the main floor and, when we open our blinds, all four of our windows open up to a park. I think this place is going to be really nice.
After unpacking we head out to find a grocery store and to find some food as we have not eaten since breakfast and it is 5 pm. We eat the most delicious hamburgers at a street stand and then head to the grocery store to pick up some stuff. It sprinkles rain intermittently and the streets are wet. I feel super refreshed. It is great to be in cooler weather.
This is our last full day here in the historic centre of Cartagena. It has been short but we probably don’t need much more time here. Breakfast definitely needs mentioning because Rudy actually took a picture of it and couldn’t stop commenting on how delicious it was.
The weather is very hot during the day and although I went out twice in the afternoon I was glad to get back to the apartment and the air conditioner to cool off. But it is beautiful here in the centre and I enjoyed some great wandering this morning and afternoon. I sat and sketched at a park and explored streets I had not been down. I even wandered into some of the shops. I also ventured a little outside the historic centre and came upon the market and also a set up of older gentlemen with equally old typewriters who offered services to type out rental agreements, documents, and certificates. Strange to think that there is still a market for these in this day and age of computers, etc.
After my two forays out into the heat I was not anxious to go out again but by 6 o’clock it was starting to cool. Rudy had researched an Italian restaurant and off we went. It was great. It felt like we were in Europe. A musican sang and played the guitar and we ate pasta. Divine. A lovely way to spend our last evening here in Cartagena. We wandered home through the warm streets and enjoyed the bustle of the people.
The historic centre of Cartagena is stunning. The vibe is invigorating. This being said, the heat is oppressive during the day. Rudy and I left our lovely apartment early to find a place for breakfast. We are only here until Tuesday so no sense in buying groceries. We will eat out. The streets were empty this morning (after everyone has had a late night on Saturday, I presume) and it took a while to find a place to eat. For the first time we have found that English is spoken almost everywhere. I guess because people come from all over Europe and North America to visit.
After breakfast we wander around the walled city. Rudy is enamoured with all the brass door knockers and takes time to construct a photo essay of what we see.
We visit the plaza that has a Botero statue. We have noticed a number of copies of Botero paintings in the local artists’ set ups. It is very tempting to get one of the bathroom ones for home. Some of the copies are actually good. After we head to a theatre that features concerts. We wander through the central courtyard which is piled with instruments but we hear no music. It is interesting to catch glimpses of life behind the walls. Many of these walls around the colonial buildings are made from chunks of coral reef.
What is behind the walls
Wall around the old city
Opening in the wall to the ocean
Wall around the old city
Texture
Coral Reef
Soon we are overheated and so head to the La Serrezuela Mall. The word mall does not really describe what this is. Yes it is a large building filled with stores but it is fabulous. It is a large circular structure with a central “theatre-like” space that features a fountain at times and concerts and theatre events at other times. It is inspired by the Spanish colonial architecture and uses beams and wood in beautiful arches and stadium seating. The stores are on the outside of the massive central stadium. There has been no scrimping on materials. Marble floors, incredible open spaces with soaring beams, open air patios, and strange art are all incorporated. Rudy and I walk around all 3 levels (one which is below ground) and marvel at the architecture. I never would think I would say that a mall is a work of art but this sure is. the combination of space and light and materials create an incredible building.
After some downtime at the apartment while Rudy talks to Alex and I read my book I am ready for more exploration. Rudy stays inside to watch the Jets game and I head out. There is no where in particular that I am headed but I end up at the Museo de la Inquisition. It is a bust. Not really much in it but here are some pictures.
After that I keep wandering and this is what I saw.
Back at the apartment I cool off and we head out for a late supper after Rudy finishing watching a disappointing Jets game.
Well not much else to report except that it appears that we have a new prime minister in the making and we are headed for an election. The folks on CBC At Issue Panel had lots to say.
Today it is time to press on and I am anxious to do so. After the crazy evening yesterday Rudy and I wake up early and are ready to go. Actually I have been awake periodically during the night trying to sort out the chaos that was yesterday evening. My dreams were wild. I dreamt about almost every possible scenario that could go wrong on a trip that could including the multiple variations on the key fiasco. But today we are putting that behind us. Sol Marie, whom we rousted from her routine yesterday to save us and get us back into our apartment, arrives cheerfully at the appointed hour. We take a taxi to the bus terminal and wait for our bus.
Rudy loves the bus and I don’t mind it at all. It is comfortable and air conditioned and it is a great sightseeing tour across the country. In some ways it is better than flying because we watch the change of scenery mile after mile. And we get to experience things you would never experience at home. For instance, we have left Santa Marta and suddenly, randomly, at the edge of the road in the middle of nowhere the bus stops and a couple of men jam a mattress and a headboard into the cargo hold below. It almost feels illegal the way it is done. And then a hour or so down the road it is quickly offloaded. Initially we are traveling through dry mountainside with sequoias and small houses perched precariously on the slopes. And then we are traveling along the coast. There are ancient long wooden fishing boats at the mouths of the rivers, roadside stands where fish and strings of shrimp are being offered up. There are salt flats and lagoons and then there is a section of miles where the ocean is on both sides of us and we are driving on a spit of land. It is lovely a desolate and occasionally there are small houses packed into fishing towns.
Past Barranquilla the landscape changes and, although there are still trees, it is farming country. I see fields of sugar cane and pastures of brahma cattle. The fincas are varied but the finca yards are often lush with plants and large houses with cool verandahs.
We finally make it to Cartagena and the bus terminal. And then there is a long ride into the historic centre in a taxi. When we arrive at our place we are delighted. It is in an old historic building. The woman who lets us in shows us around our spacious quarters. We have come to expect the bare minimum with regards to supplies at Airbnbs. Often there are no hand towels, just barely enough toilet paper etc. But here we are astonished to find that there is beer and water in the fridge for us and every other amenity. We share a beer and then head out to explore and have supper.
Cartagena (the historic centre) is exactly what you would expect of a Central or South American colonial place. It is gorgeous. But it has its own feel as well. It is definitely Carribean. The people are darker and it feels a bit like a European city. It is Saturday night and everyone is dressed to the nines. Many men wear linen or cotton pants and shirts. The women are dressed in long classy dresses that are often cotton or linen as well. Rudy was sporting a clean t-shirt and I managed to wear a long dress so we managed to fit in okay. After supper we wander up and down the streets. In the main square there are drummers and musicians and dancers and the show is definitely not Spanish. It is Caribbean. It is wild and lovely.
I can barely wait until tomorrow to do more exploring.
Have I waxed eloquent enough about how delicious the fruit is? Today is another day with which we can enjoy the fresh produce. Mangos, pineapple, and bananas on our pancakes this morning. And fresh guacamole with our chips this afternoon. What more can I say about the day? Not much as we basically did nothing.
Well one other thing. I saw a strange thing on the way home from supper yesterday. It bears mentioning as I am sure that there is some author out there that needs this image as inspiration for a novel, short story, or article. On the top of a high cinderblock wall and entangled in the razor wire was something that looked like a child’s toy. Chilling, weird, and definitely worth taking note of. On closer inspection it looked to be a stuffed toy. Perhaps a clown? How did this clown get there? What was the story behind it?
Please someone take the idea and run with it. Can I start you off on that story? Maybe set in some dystopian future. Here goes….
“The little girl wondered what was outside the wall. She was ten years old and had never been out. Smoke occasionally billowed over the walls. The smell of something rotten blew in when the wind came from the west, the place the old ones called the Desolation. She sat every afternoon under the transformer that kept the lights going and wondered. And one day she decided she could not bear the unknowing any longer. It was time to let her toy clown take a trip over the wall.”
Go ahead. I’ll be waiting to hear more….
Anyway, enough of that. One day runs into the next and we are as lethargic as the weather dictates. And let me tell you the heat is quite something. This morning I went out early to see whether I could get some brisk walking in before I began to wilt. I lasted about a half hour and had to come home. But I did follow the river to where it meets the ocean and it was a quiet spot which is sometimes hard to come by here. I also watched some fishermen haul in a net which was cool but in the end anticlimactic. There were only a few fish and not very big. The men and boys ended up throwing handfuls of fingerlings back into the ocean.
Back at home I had a couple of great swims in the pool and managed to produce one very terrible tourist painting. Rudy laughed and said that it might be useful for a chalk-talk and that I shouldn’t feel like the time I put in was entirely wasted. Would anyone like me to do a missionary report when I get back to Canada? I am open to some speaking engagements!!
Well, we ended the evening with a walk to the mall and the Dollar City store. I am running out of yellow watercolour paint and the only place I could find to replace it was there. So folks, don’t fret. If I have more days like this there will be a lot more paintings for my chalk-talks complete with a big ole yellow sunsets and palm trees.
