Category: Cartagena

This is our last full day here in the historic centre of Cartagena. It has been short but we probably don’t need much more time here. Breakfast definitely needs mentioning because Rudy actually took a picture of it and couldn’t stop commenting on how delicious it was.

The weather is very hot during the day and although I went out twice in the afternoon I was glad to get back to the apartment and the air conditioner to cool off. But it is beautiful here in the centre and I enjoyed some great wandering this morning and afternoon. I sat and  sketched at a park and explored streets I had not been down. I even wandered into some of the shops. I also ventured a little outside the historic centre and came upon the market and also a set up of older gentlemen with equally old typewriters who offered services to type out rental agreements, documents, and certificates. Strange to think that there is still a market for these in this day and age of computers, etc.

After my two forays out into the heat  I was not anxious to go out again but by 6 o’clock it was starting to cool. Rudy had researched an Italian restaurant and off we went. It was great. It felt like we were in Europe. A musican sang and played the guitar and we ate pasta. Divine. A lovely way to spend our last evening here in Cartagena. We wandered home through the warm streets and enjoyed the bustle of the people.

The historic centre of Cartagena is stunning. The vibe is invigorating. This being said, the heat is oppressive during the day. Rudy and I left our lovely apartment early to find a place for breakfast. We are only here until Tuesday so no sense in buying groceries. We will eat out. The streets were empty this morning (after everyone has had  a late night on Saturday, I presume) and it took a while to find a place to eat. For the first time we have found that English is spoken almost everywhere. I guess because people come from all over Europe and North America to visit.

After breakfast we wander around the walled city.  Rudy is enamoured with all the brass door knockers and takes time to construct a photo essay of what we see.

We visit the plaza that has a Botero statue. We have noticed a number of copies of Botero paintings in the local artists’ set ups. It is very tempting to get one of the bathroom ones for home. Some of the copies are actually good. After we head to a theatre that features concerts. We wander through the central courtyard which is piled with instruments but we hear no music. It is interesting to catch glimpses of life behind the walls. Many of these walls around the colonial buildings are made from chunks of coral reef.

Soon we are overheated and so head to the La Serrezuela Mall. The word mall does not really describe what this is. Yes it is a large building filled with stores but it is fabulous. It is a large circular structure with a central “theatre-like” space that features a fountain at times and concerts and theatre events at other times. It is inspired by the Spanish colonial architecture and uses beams and wood in beautiful arches and stadium seating.  The stores are on the outside of the massive central stadium. There has been no scrimping on materials.  Marble floors, incredible open spaces with soaring beams, open air patios, and strange art are all incorporated. Rudy and I walk around all 3 levels (one which is below ground) and marvel at the architecture. I never would think I would say that a mall is a work of art but this sure is. the combination of space and light and materials create an incredible building.

After some downtime at the apartment while Rudy talks to Alex and I read my book I am ready for more exploration. Rudy stays inside to watch the Jets game and I head out. There is no where in particular that I am headed but I end up at the Museo de la Inquisition. It is a bust. Not really much in it but here are some pictures.

 

After that I keep wandering and this is what I saw.

Back at the apartment I cool off and we head out for a late supper after Rudy finishing watching a disappointing Jets game.

Well not much else to report except that it appears that we have a new prime minister in the making and we are headed for an election. The folks on CBC At Issue Panel had lots to say.

 

Today it is time to press on and I am anxious to do so. After the crazy evening yesterday Rudy and I wake up early and are ready to go. Actually I have been awake periodically during the night trying to sort out the chaos that was yesterday evening. My dreams were wild. I dreamt about almost every possible scenario that could go wrong on a trip that could including the multiple variations on the key fiasco. But today we are putting that behind us. Sol Marie, whom we rousted from her routine yesterday to save us and get us back into our apartment, arrives cheerfully at the appointed hour. We take a taxi to the bus terminal and wait for our bus.

Rudy loves the bus and I don’t mind it at all. It is comfortable and air conditioned and it is a great sightseeing tour across the country. In some ways it is better than flying because we watch the change of scenery mile after mile. And we get to experience things you would never experience at home. For instance, we have left Santa Marta and suddenly, randomly, at the edge of the road in the middle of nowhere the bus stops and a couple of men jam a mattress and a headboard into the cargo hold below.  It almost feels illegal the way it is done. And then a hour or so down the road it is quickly offloaded. Initially we are traveling through dry mountainside with sequoias and  small houses perched precariously on the slopes. And then we are traveling along the coast. There are ancient long wooden fishing boats at the mouths of the rivers, roadside stands where fish and strings of shrimp are being offered up. There are salt flats and lagoons and then there is a section of miles where the ocean is on both sides of us and we are driving on a spit of land. It is lovely a desolate and occasionally there are small houses packed into fishing towns.

Past Barranquilla the landscape changes and, although there are still trees, it is farming country. I see fields of sugar cane and pastures of brahma cattle. The fincas are varied but the finca yards are often lush with plants and large houses with cool verandahs.

We finally make it to Cartagena and the bus terminal. And then there is a long ride into the historic centre in a taxi. When we arrive at our place we are delighted. It is in an old historic building. The woman who lets us in shows us around our spacious quarters. We have come to expect the bare minimum with regards to supplies at Airbnbs. Often there are no hand towels, just barely enough toilet paper etc. But here we are astonished to find that there is beer and water in the fridge for us and every other amenity. We share a beer and then head out to explore and have supper.

Cartagena (the historic centre) is exactly what you would expect of a Central or South American colonial place. It is gorgeous. But it has its own feel as well. It is definitely Carribean. The people are darker and it feels a bit like a European city. It is Saturday night and everyone is dressed to the nines.  Many men wear linen or cotton  pants and shirts. The women are dressed in long classy dresses that are often cotton or linen as well. Rudy was sporting a clean t-shirt and I managed to wear a long dress so we managed to fit in okay.  After supper we wander up and down the streets. In the main square there are drummers and musicians and dancers and the show is definitely not Spanish. It is Caribbean. It is wild and lovely.

I can barely wait until tomorrow to do more exploring.